Notes From a Small Island

Ko Phi Phi is indescribably beautiful. Towering sheer limestone cliffs burst straight up from jewell-coloured waters whilst waves crash dramatically at their base. It's 1950's-Hollywood romantic. Little wonder that the movie 'The Beach' was filmed here. Most of Phi Phi Don is mountainous. The southern tip, which has seen an explosion of tourist activity since 'The Beach', is postcard-perfect. Two crescent-shaped lagoons carve either side of the island into a narrow strip of land, which has haphazardly developed into a miniature town. Despite this increased tourism, expansion has been low-key and the island has managed to retain a real island-community feel. Definitely a place to lose yourself for a week... or six.

The after effects of the Tsunami are everywhere. Phi Phi had the higest death-rate per sq. km of any of the regions affected by the disaster. The wave completely levelled the southern pensinsula, most of which is little above 1m above sea level. There are still whole sections of the interior yet to be cleared. Standing on these Bounty-advert beaches and snorkelling the coves, it's hard to conceive of what must have happened here.

I have a new addicition. Thai massge is, simply, incredible. A mixture of muscle manipulation, pressure point stimulation and yoga... it has to be experienced to be believed. It's usually performed by tiny, slight Thai women whose body-builder strength belies their fragile frames, and is administered with such intense commitment and care that most western masseurs would be embarrassed. Top honours so far must go to Meng, one half of the gorgeous brother-sister duo who run our guesthouse. Whilst Wayne taught Rainbow (the sister) some 'alternative English' (the hallways of 'The Island' guesthouse now ring with Thai-tinted cries of 'hiya darlin' and 'alright pet?') Meng - who has just qualified and is therefore eager to practice - delivered a 2 1/2 hour massage that left me feeling better than I have in years. Who knew I was that flexible?! He refused to take more than 200 baht - that's under 3 pounds. Unbeleivable. Combine all of this with the most gentle race of people I have ever come across and amazing, amazing food and it's easy to see why people fall in love with Thailand. This really could be the beginning of a lifelong love affair...